Saturday September 7
Yesterday I took the train from Uzice (Serbia) into Montenegro. This should be one of the most scenic rides in Europe. Indeed it’s impressive, so many tunnels and everytime we leave the tunnel a new world with scenic mountains shows up. In Bijelo Polje border control stamps the passports and a taxi takes me into town. A small town, not much to do.
Today I walk over the local market to the small station. People gather, so the train will be here soon. This part of the journey, to Podgorica, is even more scenic. I share the coupe with three older local men and one of them is the entertainer. Hours of (dirty) stories, I don’t understand anything about it, but apparently they’re good, because the guys are laughing all the time. The Moraca river meandering through Podgorica and the parks around are nice. The main building is the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, the outside plastered with big blocks and some figuration, the inside plastered with gold leafs and paintings. In the evening the Electronic Beats event livelied the center, reminding me of good festival times.
Monday the rental car takes me into the mountains with a visit at the Ostrog Monastery near Niksic. A traffic jam up the mountain, but cool views. Via Niksic to Herceg Novi at the coast. The view at the bay when arriving is beautiful. Forte Mare, the citadel and Kanli Kula and Medieval remains are situated on the rocks at the coasts. Nice picture.
So many small interesting towns along the bay, Perast is a beauty, with the churches on the rocks in the bay and of course Kotor. Traffic is hopeless, but the old walled city is a must see. Narrow streets, old buildings, cool views. In the afternoon there are some very heavy showers. To avoid the traffic a bit I drive along the coast around the peninsula to Tivat. Sometimes I can hardly see the road. From Tivat I drive in the direction of Budva, the streets are flooded, traffic goes dead slow and I decide to book something in the neighborhood.
The next day the rain stopped and I drive to Rose. A tip from a friend. This urban town has nothing to offer but an old submarine tunnel from the Yugoslavian times. If you know how to find it you can just go inside. Interesting. More scenic drives. Traffic is better and the road at the coast with the rocky cliffs is beautiful. At Ulcinj the beach is calling and the bay provides nice warm seawater to swim. Besides this, the old walled city is worth visiting.
From here panoramic road 3 goes to Stari Bar, the remains of the old city, grown over by plants. More winding roads to Skadar Lake. Again, so beautiful. From here it’s a short distance to the Njegos Monument. I’m lucky and can park quite close, so it’s just the endless stairs up to the top. From the mausoleum on top of the mountain a 360 degree view is provided. Wow.
More scenic roads, but the roads in and around Durmitor National Park have by far the most astounding views. And so much fun driving these winding roads. Every time you have to stop to enjoy the view and take more pictures. At the end of the day a visit to the Black Lake. Deep blue cold water and green forest around, mountains in the background.
What astounding sceneries has Montenegro to offer.
